Viktor and Rolf menswear spring-summer 2013 gets a taste of India

By Thomas Adamson

THE ASSOCIATED PRESS

PARIS — Viktor and Rolf produced a vibrant menswear spring-summer 2013 with a taste of India — mixing the colours and silhouettes of the subcontinent with their signature suits.

For the very Western design duo, based in Amsterdam, the East seems like an unlikely place to go.

“We were in the mood for something spiritual, sartorial and Indian. … We liked the contrast,” Viktor Horsting said backstage.

The affair was certainly more millionaire than slumdog with wool-silk silhouettes in burnt oranges, deep red, tonal peach and sparkles of Bollywood-style glass appliques.

The Eastern influence saw their normally strict sartorial approach softened in suits. They were less constructed than in previous seasons.

One softly striped suit had a feel of rich Indian linen.

In other looks, jackets were worn with Jodhpur trousers — an Indian garment imported to Europe under Queen Victoria — to create subtle carrot shaped silhouettes.

The dalliance with India, was, however, short lived.

The strongest part of the collection was the interesting variation of the very European herringbone print. It featured in jacquards for tuxedo jackets, and hand drawn for lightweight wool suiting.

When the holiday is over, after all, you always venture home.

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Thomas Adamson can be followed at http://Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP

13:07ET 28-06-12